Christmas in San Sebastián: What a Basque Holiday Looks and Tastes Like

Most European cities decorate the same way in December — the same string lights, the same mulled wine stalls, the same generic “Christmas market” template copied from Vienna to Valencia. San Sebastián has all of that too. But underneath it, there’s a Christmas that has nothing to do with Santa Claus, and everything to do with a coal worker who comes down from the mountains.